@ -6,47 +6,47 @@ description: Attempt to repair my first PC and part inventory
---
This was my first PC back in ~ 2001 2002. It was already used back then and
it shipped with the mighty Micro$oft Windows 98 OS (probably the "First
it shipped with the mighty Micro$oft Windows 98 OS (probably the "First
Edition").
{% include image.html file="dsl_boot_on_old_pc.gif" alt="booting Damn Small Linux (DSL) from the CD-ROM" caption="booting Damn Small Linux (DSL) with the CD-ROM" %}
I remember using *Intern€t Explor€r* (version 5?) with
this thing (sic) and to do that I had to connect the internal
[Winmodem](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Softmodem) to a
[tripolar phone
plug](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripolar_plug) with an RJ-45 to
tripolar beige wire (this also happened with the
I remember using *Intern€t Explor€r* (version 5?) with
this thing (sic) and to do that I had to connect the internal
[Winmodem](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Softmodem) to a
[tripolar phone
plug](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripolar_plug) with an RJ-45 to
tripolar beige wire (this also happened with the
next computer). Internet speed was around 32Kbps on average.
No USBs, no WiFi, no Ethernet. Only a CD-ROM and a floppy disk drive which was
the only medium I used at the time to move files. Infact I remember using
No USBs, no WiFi, no Ethernet. Only a CD-ROM and a floppy disk drive which was
the only medium I used at the time to move files. Infact I remember using
floppy drives for school researches using Micro$oft Word as an editor.
It was not a gaming PC but I was able to play
titles like *Hard Truck: Road To Victory*, *Age Of Empires II* or *Flight
titles like *Hard Truck: Road To Victory*, *Age Of Empires II* or *Flight
Simulator 98* anyway.
Sadly, some years ago this PC refused to boot up. This happened
more and more frequenly and I had no idea on what was going on. I gave up
Sadly, some years ago this PC refused to boot up. This happened
more and more frequenly and I had no idea on what was going on. I gave up
using it...
... until I decided to repair it and I noticed some corrosion on
... until I decided to repair it and I noticed some corrosion on
the RAM module. I found [this post](http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/253501-30-cleaning-memory-eraser-chips)
which suggests using a pencil eraser on the pins. It worked. When booting, the
leds of the AT keyboard instead of blinking once, now blinked twice. So I
connected the video card as well but nothing happened. I then connected a PC
which suggests using a pencil eraser on the pins. It worked. When booting, the
leds of the AT keyboard instead of blinking once, now blinked twice. So I
connected the video card as well but nothing happened. I then connected a PC
| [Dlink DHP-306AV](https://eu.dlink.com/uk/en/products/dhp-306av-powerline-av-network-adapter) | 1 | powerline to ethernet adapters | if your computer is out of range from the router or switch | no |
| Ethernet wire | 2 | CAT 5e | connect the power line devices | no |
| USB extension cord | 1 | | connect this cable between the computer and the webcam | no |
@ -337,8 +337,8 @@ web_extras=""
#### Calibration
- Use `$ alsamixer` to set the audio levels. The hardest part was finding a
working interval for the amplitude and frequency values through which the
- Use `$ alsamixer` to set the audio levels. The hardest part was finding a
working interval for the amplitude and frequency values through which the
script is able to avoid as much false positives as possible.
- [Fix the desired audio level for the next reboots](https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/210113/default-sound-volume-for-all-alsa-devices)
@ -350,18 +350,18 @@ web_extras=""
- Version 0.0: this version.
- Version 0.1: discontinue the Thinkpad A31 and use the Raspberry PI instead
with an (full HD?) IR camera module and its extension cord to reach out of
the door. This should free the USB hub that we must use for the audio
trigger (a usb microphone or USB audio card connected to the analog
with an (full HD?) IR camera module and its extension cord to reach out of
the door. This should free the USB hub that we must use for the audio
trigger (a usb microphone or USB audio card connected to the analog
microphone).
- Version 0.2: instead of using an audio trigger, use some kind of sensor. Our
doorbell transforms the electrical current to piston movement against two
- Version 0.2: instead of using an audio trigger, use some kind of sensor. Our
doorbell transforms the electrical current to piston movement against two
metal bars that vibrate at a certain frequency, which in turn produce
sound. This new yet unkown method should always be reliable and avoid any
sound. This new yet unkown method should always be reliable and avoid any
false positive.
- Version 0.3: add an open-close door sensor which interfaces to the GPIO. Use
- Version 0.3: add an open-close door sensor which interfaces to the GPIO. Use
a USB camera once this trigger activates.
- Version 0.4: adapt all this stuff so that it works with something like [Home
- Version 0.4: adapt all this stuff so that it works with something like [Home
Assistant](https://www.home-assistant.io/) or [Kalliope](https://kalliope-project.github.io/).
